Fish Hook Clasp

• I think these are the Most Reliable/Easiest for any width of bracelet.
• I prefer to use these with a seed bead bracelet (size of bead is 10 or 11)
• I prefer to use the fish hook the most because there is no break in the fitting (the part of the clasp that is threaded and attached to the bracelet). This eliminates the possibility that the string will slip through the break.
• Selecting size of fish hook: Ensure that the mouth opening of the fish hook fits the bead size used at the loop of the piece.
• When considering what size of clasp you need, consider the width and length of the bracelet. I generally use large clasps for wide bracelets and long necklaces, and smaller for dainty bracelets and chokers.
• When using a large fish hook with large size beads, rethreading may need to be accompanied by knotting. A knot(s) can be tied before rethreading back through the piece and/or at the point(s) in the piece a knot would be nicely camouflaged.

End #1: Loop

Make a loop of 6 - 10 small beads circling back through the loop 3-4 times (or as many as the bead hole permits).
Finish by rethreading back through the piece.

End #2: Clasp

Instead of the 6 - 10 small beads as above, string 2 beads, the fish-hook clasp, 2 more beads, then rethread back through the piece.

For multi-strand string projects, there is a multi clasp that is very secure as it has no breaks in the fitting.

Bolt Clasp/Screw Clasp/S-Hook Clasp

     

• The benefit to using bolt ring and screw clasps is their variety, allowing you to match a dressy to casual bracelet or necklace.
• The disadvantage of this type of clasp is that they have breaks in the fitting (the part that is threaded through to attach to the beadwork piece). For use with projects using larger string, leather, fishing line this is less of a problem, but for use with Nymo Size D thread it is very definitely a problem which can be helped by dabbing clear bond at the fitting break.
• When considering size I generally use large clasps for wide bracelets and long necklaces, and smaller for dainty bracelets and chokers.
• For larger string, leather, fishing line this is less of a problem, but for Nymo Size D thread is very definitely is a problem.

Tips

• When attaching, wrap fitting with thread 2-3 times.
• Once the clasp is attached, use clear glue, clear nail polish, or clear head cement on the break in the fitting in an attempt to seal it.
• In addition, *building up* the thread with the glue/nail polish/head cement can add diameter and stiffness to the string.

The above tips are attempts to make this clasp/thread scenario work, but there is no guarantee that the thread wont slip through the break anyway, causing the fitting to become detached from the jewellery.

The Fastening Bead

The fastening bead is usually a larger bead, or smaller beads wrapped to make a larger bead, or a bead covered with seed beads to match the piece. This bead-clasp style is intended to fit inside a loop created at the other end of a bracelet, or necklace or belt.

I generally mistrust this fastener as there is no way to tighten the loop around the bead making it easy to fall away.

Tips

• Weight of bead: I prefer a heavy bead when the bead chosen is *round*, at least this way gravity can assist in providing some resistance to being pulled back through the loop.
• Create a neck before attaching the larger bead. This means adding 1"-2" of smaller beads, before the fastening bead, to fit through the loop. Once the bead is through the loop the added neck length allows you to wrap over the neck on the other side of the loop creating a situation where both gravity and wrapping create resistance against the bead wanting back through the loop. A long neck can have a nice dramatic back drop effect which I find rather sexy.
• Don't want a neck? Try an *umbrella* type of bead, i.e. a button, or create a round flat head (peyote circular stitch) that will catch at the loop, or your own fimo button. It's still not full proof, but certainly adds to friction possibilities.